Monday, October 27, 2014

Suzy Menkes At London Fashion Week: Day Five

With vivid light from a stained glass window illuminating one church wall and organ music coming from the opposite side, young women walked the knave. Their hair was wet and tangled like a drowning Ophelia. Their black dresses and shoes were plain, except for a waft of fluff.
Picture credit: Indigital
The sweet solemnity of the Simone Rocha show was the most romantic vision of womanhood seen in the London spring/summer 2015 shows. Every emotion was there, from sobre moments with chiffon headscarves, as though going to Sunday worship, to wild oriental flowers in lacquer red.
Picture credit: Indigital
"I was thinking so much of ballet," said the designer backstage. And she must surely have been thinking of her own poetic steps: her Irish background, with her grandmother's crochet, worked into the collection; her extended Asian family in Hong Kong; and her step forward as the lone representative of the Rocha family, her father John having retired this season.
But emotion, however heartfelt, is nothing in fashion if you cannot represent that feeling in clothes. And Simone Rocha did not put a fluffy shoe wrong (even if she herself was wearing her signature pearl-decorated slippers).
The fragility of the women in simple nude chiffon dresses with a curving furry hem; the energy in the red florals and polka dots; the lacy, bridal white… All this emotion gathered into perfect modern clothes: decent dresses, tailored coats, often worn over straight trousers and flat shoes. The work on fabrics, which is one of the designer's strengths, made apparently simple pieces special.
Picture credit: Indigital
Simone, who dedicated the show to the late professor Louise Wilson, her mentor at Saint Martins, is a true talent with a sweet, clear voice. London fashion once had a New Romantics phase. Simone Rocha is the post-feminist, twenty-first-century version.

Sam Hunt Was Never 'Gung-Ho' About the Song That Made Him Famous

Photo: David McClister
Country music's rookie of the year is part heartbreaker, part hipster—and he likes it that way. With his penchant for snappy shoes and DIY T-shirts (he sports one in the laced-with-moonshine video for his breakout hit, "Leave the Night On"), Sam Hunt doesn't look like a former NFL quarterback. But he is. After graduating from the University of Alabama at Birmingham in 2007, the Nashville native briefly signed as a free agent with the Kansas City Chiefs. And though he's since left the locker room days behind, Hunt, who has written tracks for Kenny Chesney and Keith Urban, and whose debut album, Montevallo, is out today, isn't your average 10-gallon-hat country act. Take, for example, his cut "Break Up in a Small Town." Its heartache-on-Main-Street is typical country fare, but its Drake-like execution—dub step, talking interludes, and autotune—suggests that the 29-year-old is still calling audibles. Here, we chat about his surprising summer smash, how he's going through a "plain" fashion phase, and where those hit songs really come from:
I was surprised to learn you were a jock, but are also fashion forward. How has your style changed since two-a-days?
I don't know where my fashion sense comes from, exactly. I've always been interested in, not necessarily being unique, but not necessarily sticking to the preexisting paradigm—whether it be clothes or music or whatever. I definitely grew up as a small-town…I guess you could call it the "small-town football player," according to the stereotype. I wasn’t involved in music at all. I was a big fan of music, but I only listened to the music that was around me, which was just country music on the radio. It wasn't until I was 18, when I was graduating high school, that I went and bought a guitar on a whim. It sort of changed my direction as far as the stereotype goesDo you have certain designers or stores that you like?
Right now I'm going through kind of a plain phase. Everything I'm wearing is really simple. That was sort of a product of pushing, pushing, pushing, and getting a little more radical with some of the clothes I was wearing. You get tired of the loud, obvious thing and revert right back to being very plain. I like doing stuff like, for instance, in the "Leave the Night On" video, I had on a plain, white T-shirt. I just wanted to do something to it to make it a little different so I just cut a big strip out of the side, from the shirttail up to my armpit, and cut a big red strip out of another T-shirt and just sewed it in there.
How do you get from small town football player to writing songs for Kenny Chesney and Keith Urban?
Those opportunities to have songs recorded by those guys were a product of relationships that I made when I moved to town [Nashville] and getting involved with a publishing company that gave me opportunities to write full time and introduced me to more writers and guys that I was able to learn a lot from. I finally found three or four guys that I really clicked with and I’ve been writing with those guys ever since. I really feel like I honed in on a sound and a style of writing that best fits me. I had the good fortune of having those guys hear songs of mine and wanting to record them. I was flattered. It sort of took off from there.
Photo: Chase Lauer
What is your writing process?
My process has evolved—and is still evolving. I'm still learning a lot as a songwriter. I try to write down and make a note of ideas that I cross paths with on a day-to-day basis, whether it be a conversation or something I hear on the radio, seeing a movie, or just thoughts in my head as I'm walking down the street. Now, the majority of those ideas are not very good. Sometimes when I sit down in a room—at first it's with a co-writer like Zach Crowell, who produced my record—I'll go through my phone and look at ideas that I've stored. It might not make sense to me at the time, but might spark something in his mind, or vice versa. A lot of times I'll go into the little vocal booth and freestyle for 10-20 minutes at a time and he’ll just record little nuggets that will eventually turn into a song.
What's a bad idea you've had recently?
I can't even really think of one right now. I'd have to go through my phone and find something ridiculous that I probably have stored in there. I actually sat in the pool with my phone about two weeks ago and I just got a new one. I lost a lot of bad ideas, actually.
Did you have any inkling that "Leave the Night On" would be so big?
No! I actually didn't at all! I always liked that song and it was fun, but I never was gung-ho about that song as far as having a really strong personal connection to it. It's not that deep of a song! It's really cool to see that people are connecting with it. Zach and Shane [McAnally], my producers, really did a lot to turn that song into something bigger than it was when it was written on an acoustic guitar.
Does it ever get annoying to sing the same songs over and over again when you're performing?
Yeah. [Laughs] Yes.
How do you do it?
If I was singing it by myself, I'd be over it really fast. But singing it live to an audience that appreciates it, and seeing people sing it back and seeing the happiness and the joy on the faces of the people singing it, that makes it a lot easier to sing it over and over and over, night after night. I definitely have that same "over it" thing even when I'm writing songs; I'll love it for a couple weeks, and then I’ll think, 'I gotta write something new!' Picking songs for this record has been the hardest thing ever because I feel like every song on the record has to be the song I wrote today, not six months ago. I feel like they're too old.
As a writer, I don't feel like anything I write is good. But sometimes I look back and think, 'That wasn’t so bad.'
Exactly! I have the exact same thing with songwriting. It takes time. A lot of times, you have to see a reaction. People react to it, and you think, 'Maybe there was something to that that I just wasn't able to be objective about.'